What emollients do
Skin feels rough when the flattened dead cells (corneocytes) of the stratum corneum are misaligned and flaking. Emollients are oils and lipid-like substances that fill the microscopic gaps between them, restoring a smooth surface and soft feel immediately.
The spectrum
- Squalane — lightweight, skin-identical, rarely problematic
- Caprylic/capric triglyceride — a stable fraction of coconut oil, light texture
- Shea butter and plant butters — richer, occlusive-leaning emollients
- Ceramides and fatty acids — emollients that are also structural: the same lipids your barrier is built from
Emollient vs humectant vs occlusive
A complete moisturizer usually needs all three behaviors: a humectant to draw water, an emollient to smooth, and an occlusive to seal. Most single ingredients lean toward one role but contribute to several.
Coyglow note: our creams use a 3:1:1 ceramide complex chosen to mirror the skin's own lipid ratio.